Date:  4th July 2021
Swell height and period:  3.5m @ 13s
Wind direction and strength:  S-SW wind, moderate 
Location:  Gold Coast, Australia
Board:  DHD 5’9” by 18 3/8” by 2 1/4”  DNA swallowtail 
Suit:  2/2 Rewired full suit 

Tell us about this run of swell…

This was the best day from a run of really good swell that hit the various points around Coolangatta… the banks were amazing but it came after a bit of a break from the water for me, so it was awesome to get a chance to head up the coast.


This session: “When I arrived it looked…”

When I arrived, it was chaos in the streets all around town… there was no parking anywhere and it took me 30 minutes just to find a spot!  I could see lines unloading down towards Big Groyne, so I was suiting up pretty franticly. The swell started in the 4 foot range early and as the tide pushed in it jacked up to a solid 6 foot plus, and super consistent. At this point I had been in for a solid 4 hours straight with just a muesli bar stashed in my wettie… luckily the rip wasn't too crazy so I was just paddling back out each time. I had some of my best waves at Kirra that day.

Talk us through this wave…  

I saw this wide set pushing in from Big Groyne so scrambled in a little to get in position. A quick scratch and I was into it, pumping hard for the first few sections to get to the double up… it’s such a high energy wave, but dreamy when you get the right one.

I got through two more barrels and was like a frothing grom again…  My next wave took me out as I tried to straighten out after being dropped in on - the lip collected me and smacked my head into the rail bursting my eardrum and sending me out of the water for six weeks. Brutal.

That whole day was worth it though haha.